Connie's Ray of Hope

I'm very honoured to share with you my very first CAL. A few weeks ago I drew the start of a mandala and tried to crochet it the best I could. It just grew and grew and out of it, Connie's Ray of Hope was born.  The day that I finished making it, an angel grew her wings and wasn't in anymore pain. Connie Johnson, a mother, wife, sister, daughter, friend and inspiration passed after her third battle with cancer.

I was a late arrival to join the villages of Love Your Sister, but that doesn't mean I wasn't moved as much as others or inspired to do better with every day life. Reading the posts by her brother Samuel, usually put things back into perspective for me and made me pop  my 'taking it for granted' bubble I didn't realise I was living in. 

Cancer affects nearly everyone in the world. It sucks and I wish it didn't exist.  It can make you question your beliefs, your way of life and what is important to you. I don't speak first hand in this matter but I feel that through Sam's posts and Connie's messages I was able to be a part of it and in return show my support.

So Connie's Ray of Hope isn't just a crochet-along. It's about a group of 'villages' coming together to make something special and at the same time bring awareness of not only breast cancer, but all cancers and make sure we are looking after ourselves.

I'm running this CAL for free with the hope that you will be able to donate some money raise funds for cancer research (a minimum of $2 can help make a difference) AND that you check your boobs (follow this link to see how) no matter who you are. So really paying $2 for a CAL that raises awareness about cancer and looking after yourself isn't that bad.

So for those of you with social media such as Instagram and Facebook where you can share your creations, I urge you to please use the hashtags #conniesrayofhope and #loveyoursister #cancersucks. This way others can follow you and join in on your journey of making something special.

In the next few days I will be posting about information about the CAL, the yarn and rings you'll need and what's what with stitches etc. At this rate, I'm aiming for an approximate start of the CAL in late October, to make sure that everyone can get the yarn and rings in time.

Till then, check your boobs and look after yourself. (PATTERN LINKS ARE BELOW)

CAL Information

Before I get started with all the mumble jumble side of things, I want to let you know about the Facebook Group I have for this Crochet-Along and other ones in the future too. If you haven’t already joined, I recommend you do so that you can post in there (questions, concerns, beautiful photos) and be surrounded by others taking part in this CAL.

If you have other social media platforms, I highly recommend using the hashtags #conniesrayofhope #theloopystitchcal and #loveyoursister throughout your journey. I would love to see them popping up all over the place and it makes it easier for others to search for them too :).

I’m going to do the next part in a Q & A style type of thing (with the hope of making it as easy to follow as possible) .

What is a Crochet-Along (CAL)? 

In my terms, it is when a crochet pattern is broken down into parts and released either weekly, fortnightly etc.  When it is released, fellow crocheters will make that particular part and eagerly await the next part.  It’s a fun way to crochet a design and sometimes there are even mystery cals where you don’t know what it is you’re making till you get that part.

How many parts is Connie’s Ray of Hope? 

There will be three (3) parts to this crochet-along which will be published weekly HERE starting towards the end of October. (I will clarify the date as soon as I can). I will provide links on my social media platforms (Instagram and Facebook) direct to the appropriate part. There are a total of 23 rounds in this pattern.

What language will it be written in?

I write all my patterns in English and use American (US) terms.

What materials do I need? (This is the important one)

Well of course, you’ll have to go and add to your yarn stash. I know it’s a terrible thing to do and I’m sorry for making you do so. Ok, ok so I’m only joking. The beauty of this design is that you CAN use up your stash as it only requires a small amount of yarn. BUT if you really NEED to buy the yarn please see the table below with yarn details and amounts (I will over estimate just a little bit and round it up). You will notice that I have over estimated a bit more for the pastel version as I didn’t weigh the skeins before hand.

I have made two different versions of this mandala…
350mm ring made with 8 ply (dk) and a 4mm hook  (Stylecraft Special DK – pastel and regal version)
450mm ring made with WW/Aran and a 5mm hook (Super Saver yarn from Spotlight, AUS)

You will also need:

• A crochet hook to correspond with the yarn of your choice
• A galvanised (or similar) ring see above for sizes to match yarn (for those in Australia you can buy them from here – Spotlight)
• Yarn needle
• Scissors
• Access to technology 😉

What is the finished size?

The approximated finished sizes are below:
350mm ring (14 inches) ends up being 450mm (17.5 inches)
450mm ring (18 inches) ends up being 585mm (23 inches)

What stitches are used in it? 

When each part is released it will contain all information relevant to it, such as stitches and how to make them. However, here are all of the stitches used in the entire mandala. If you are unsure of any stitches and want to learn how to make them before the cal comes out, I suggest googling them and using *(US) terms* with your search.

Can I make this is one colour? 

Why yes you can 🙂 I have written the instructions with the option of using a continuous strand or joining with new colours. It will look something like this…

Using same colour:
OR
Joining new colour:

Please make sure you read the instructions that apply to you. I am hoping that this makes it easier for you to follow and you don’t have to work out how many chains to make to start each round or where to begin a new colour.

Does it come with photos? 

Yes!!!! I am one for step-by-step photos with everything and I am trying to make this journey as easy and uncomplicated as possible. So I have step-by-step photos as well as close ups too. The photos will be with the corresponding rounds not at the bottom of the entire page.

HELP! I’m stuck, I don’t understand this part? 

Well that’s what I am here for. I will try and reply as soon as I can. Obviously a time difference will make things a little longer for those of you around the other side of the world. Please contact me on my Facebook Page or FB CAL group or email – theloopystitches@gmail.com. If it is a funny time of day/night, maybe other members of the group will be able to help you until I awaken from my beauty sleep.

I would love to keep track of my progress on Ravelry. 

That is a wonderful idea. So here is the link to the pattern on there so you can do just that.

I’ve read all this mumble jumble, what now? 

Well, congratulations for getting the nitty-gritty boring stuff out of the way. Now all you have to do is wait and be teased by the photos I release until it’s time to begin part 1. If you need to order materials, I’d do so as quickly as possible that way you can join in on time when we are ready to get started. Apart from that, I think that’s about it. I don’t know much about CALs so please forgive me if I have forgotten anything, but also let me know lol.

Until then, I can’t wait to ‘meet’ some of you in the group. If you want to follow more sneaky peeks, I tend to be more proactive on my Instagram account – link up the top :).

Happy hooking,
Much love,
Em xoxoxo

P.S Here’s another photo now to excite you that little bit more. (Well I hope you are as excited as I am)

Welcome to Part ONE of Connie’s Ray of Hope. 

With this crochet-along being my first, you may find things a little different to other cals you’ve participated in. I hope it all makes sense and is smooth sailing for you all, but most importantly I hope you have fun that this crochet along raises awareness about cancer for you and those around you.

So here we are in week one of Connie’s Ray of Hope and this part is all about checking yourself and looking after you! Here is the link to how to check your breasts. There are 5 steps to help you check and also 5 things to look out for. According to the article on this link, early detection and treatment is the only real cure. So please take the time to look after yourself and if you do find something irregular please go to see your GP straight away.

When I first designed Connie’s Ray of Hope in the pastel colours, I was inspired by all the colours of cancer awareness ribbons. The pinks being breast cancer surrounded by other colours and then finishing it off with the breast cancer again to pay tribute to Connie.

In the first part of this cal you will be using two pinks if you chose to go with the Pastel colourway option. Please see the below chart for colours and their corresponding rows.

Remember that there are many ways to get into contact with me or others if you get stuck. Please click on the links in the Information post to see how to do so.

I would love to see your creations don’t forget to use the hashtags #conniesrayofhope #theloopystitchcal #loveyoursister when you post on social media platforms. Definitely post in the groups too.

Click here to donate to Love Your Sister. Remember you can donate to other cancer charities close to your heart too.

Click here to watch the video of Part 1: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4tHORILfF_Q&t=1s

Want the downloadable version (English)? The Loopy Stitch Crochet Along – Connie’s Ray of Hope PART ONE (updated as of Tuesday 6:09am 24th October)

I’d like to thank Juli so much for translating the crochet-along into Spanish xoxo

Download PDF in Spanish  Connie’s Ray of Hope – Part 1 (SPANISH)

Download PDF in Czech – Please see the bottom of this page. Thank you Daniela (Daduelle) for translating this pattern. 

Please read the entire pattern through completely before starting. Some things will make more sense once your read on. 

For this part you will need: 

– Your yarn

– Corresponding hook

– Scissors

– Yarn needle

Finished size of Part One:

8 ply/dk version (Pastel and Regal) and 4mm hook: approximately 9 inches / 23 cm

Worsted Weight (Original) and 5mm hook: approximately 12 inches / 30.5 cm

Stitches Used in Part One: US TERMS

Chain (ch)

Slip Stitch (sl st): Starting with a loop on your hook, insert hook in stitch or space indicated and pull up a loop, pull through loop on hook as well.

Single Crochet (sc): Starting with a loop on your hook, insert hook in stitch or space indicated and draw up a loop (two loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through both loops on your hook.

Standing Single Crochet: Starting with a slip stitch on your hook, insert hook in stitch or space indicated and draw up a loop (two loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through both loops on your hook.

Half Double Crochet (hdc): Starting with a loop on your hook, yarn over, insert hook in stitch or space indicated, yarn over and draw up a loop (three loops on hook. Yarn over and pull through all three loops. 

Double Crochet (dc): Starting with a loop on your hook, yarn over, insert hook in stitch or space indicated, yarn over and draw up a loop (three loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through two loops (two loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through both loops on your hook.

Standing Double Crochet: Starting with a slip stitch on your hook, yarn over, insert hook in stitch or space indicated, yarn over and draw up a loop (three loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through two loops (two loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through both loops on your hook.

Treble Crochet (tr): Starting with a loop on your hook, yarn over twice, insert hook in stitch or space indicated, yarn over and draw up a loop (4 loops on hook).  (Yarn over and pull through two loops) x 3 times

Standing Treble Crochet: Starting with a sl st on your hook, yarn over, insert hook in stitch or space indicated, yarn over and draw up a loop (4 loops on hook).  (Yarn over and pull through two loops) x 3 times

Back Post Single Crochet (bpsc): Starting with a loop on your hook, yarn over, insert hook from back to front to back around post of indicated stitch, yarn over and draw up loop, yarn over and pull through 2 loops

Back Post Half Double Crochet (bphdc): Starting with a loop on your hook, yarn over, insert hook from back to front to back around post of indicated stitch, yarn over and draw up a loop, yarn over and pull through 3 loops

Beginning Popcorn (beg pc): Ch 3(counts as dc), 4 dc in same sp as, drop loop from hook, insert hook from front to back in top of ch 3, pick up dropped loop, pull dropped loop through, ch 1 (to lock) (see photos below)

Popcorn (pc): Work 5 dc in same stitch or space indicated, drop loop from hook, insert hook from front to back in first dc made, pick up dropped loop, pull dropped loop through, ch 1 (to lock)

Three-Chain Picot (p3): Chain 3, insert hook back into the centre of the base stitch (through both the front loop and loop below the front loop), yarn over and pull through stitch and loops on hook (slip stitch made)

Five-Chain Picot (p5): Slip stitch into space or stitch indicated, ch 5, slip stitch back into the same place. (You are actually making the slip stitches into the same place you made the p3 slip stitches)

V Stitch (v-5 st): Make (dc, ch 5, dc) in stitch or space indicated

V Stitch (v-2 st): Make (dc, ch 2, dc) in stitch or space indicated

How to make a Beginning Popcorn Stitch:

Ch 3 (or make a standing dc), 4 dc in same st, drop loop and insert hook into top of ch 3 and pick up dropped loop. Pull through dropped loop and ch 1 to close stitch.

Where to place p5 on Round 6. 

Notes:

Inspired by the Mandala Madness by Helen Shrimpton,

Hints will be in italics and bold and coloured green.

Stitch counts will be in bold and orange. 

Using the one coloured yarn for each round – look for blue.

New rounds for continual (same coloured) yarn will be in italics and blue. 

Wanting to start a new colour (or follow ones already made) for each round – look for pink.  New rounds for joining new yarn will be in italics and pink.

* * Please repeat the instructions between asterisks the number of times stated.

( ) Repeat the instructions between parentheses the number of times stated.

Please remember that the ch 1 to close the popcorn stitches do not count in the stitch count. 

Colours and Rounds:

Below is a table with the colours used (Please refer to here to see what brands of yarn they are)

Pattern: 

Round 1: 

Using your first colour chosen or the only colour, make either a magic ring or ch 3, sl st to 1st ch to form ring.  Ch 1 (does not count as sc here and throughout), 8 sc in ring, join with sl st to 1st sc made.

(8 sc)

Round 2:

Using same colour: Ch 3 (counts as dc here and throughout), dc in same sp, 2 dc in each st around, join with sl st to top of ch 3.

Joining new colour: In any st, make a standing dc, dc in same sp, 2 dc in each st around, join with sl st to 1st dc made.

Cut yarn and weave in ends.

(16 dc)

Round 3: 

Using same colour: Ch 1, sc in same st, *ch 2, sc in next 2 sts*, repeat from * around, omit last sc, join with sl st to 1st sc made.

Joining new colour: In any dc made, make a standing sc, *ch 2, sc in next 2 sts*, repeat from * around, omit last sc, join with sl st to 1st sc made.

Cut yarn and weave in ends.

(16 sc, 16 ch)

Round 4:

Using same colour: Sl st to ch-2 sp, beg pc, ch 4, *pc in next ch-2 sp, ch 4*, repeat from * around, join with sl st to 1st pc made.

Joining new colour: Make a beg pc in any ch-2 sp, ch 4, *pc in next ch-2 sp, ch 4*, repeat from * around, join with sl st to 1st pc made.

Cut yarn and weave in ends.

(8 pop, 32 ch)

Round 5: 

Using same colour: Ch 1, *sc in pc, (2 dc, tr, p3, tr, 2 dc) in ch-4 sp*, repeat from * around, join with sl st to 1st sc made.

Joining new colour: Make a standing *sc in pc st, ( 2 dc, tr, p3, tr, 2 dc) in ch-4 sp*, repeat from * around, join with sl st to 1st sc made.

Cut yarn and weave in ends.

(32 dc, 16 dc, 8 p3, 8 sc)

Round 6:

Using same colour: *Ch 7, sl st to same st, bpsc around next 3 sts, p5, bpsc around next 3 sts, join with sl st to sc from round 5 (same as last sl st from last round).

Joining new colour: In any sc, join with a sl st, *ch 7, sl st to same st, bpsc around next 3 sts, p5, bpsc around next 3 sts, sl st to sc*, repeat from * around.

Cut yarn and weave in ends.

(96 ch, 48 bpsc, 8 p5)

Round 7:

Using same colour: Sl st in the 1st 3 sts of ch 7, sl st into loop, ch 8 (counts as *dc + ch 5), dc in same sp, ch 4, fold p5 towards you, make sc into loop made by p3, ch 4*, repeat from * around, join with sl st to 3rd ch.

Joining new colour: In any ch-7 loop, make a standing *v-5 st, ch 4, fold p5 towards you make a sc into loop made by p3, ch 4*, repeat from * around, join with sl st to 1st dc made.

Cut yarn and weave in ends.

(16 dc, 88 ch)

Round 8: 

Using same colour: *Ch 7, sl st to next dc, ch 3, sc in sc, ch 3, sl st into next dc*, repeat from * around (you have already joined by making the last sl st into next dc of last repeat 😉 )

Joining new colour: In any 1st dc of v-5 st, join with a sl st, *ch 7, sl st to next dc, ch 3, sc in sc, ch 3, sl st into next dc*, repeat from * around (you have already joined by making the last sl st into next dc of last repeat).

Cut yarn and weave in ends.

(8 sc, 104 ch)

Round 9: 

Using same colour: Ch 1, *9 sc in ch-7 loop, 4 sc in ch-3 sp, dc into p5 from round 6, 4 sc in ch-3 sp*, repeat from * around, join with sl st to 1st sc made.

Joining new colour: In any ch-7 loop, make a standing *sc, 8 sc in same sp, 4 sc in ch-3 sp, dc into p5 from round 6, 4 sc in ch-3 sp*, repeat from * around, join with sl st to 1st sc made.

Cut yarn and weave in ends.

(136 sc, 8 dc)

Round 10: 

Using same colour: Ch 4 (counts as *tr), tr in same sp, (tr, dc) in next st, 2 dc in next st, dc in next st, v-2 st in next st, dc in next st, 2 dc in next st, (dc, tr) in next st, (2 tr) in next st, fpsc around dc from round 9*, repeat from * around, join with sl st to 4th ch.

Joining new colour: Make a standing 2 tr in 1st sc made in any ch-7 loop, (tr, dc) in next st, 2 dc in next st, dc in next st, v-2 st in next st, dc in next st, 2 dc in next st, (dc, tr) in next st, (2 tr) in next st, fpsc around dc from round 9*, repeat from * around, join with sl st to 1st tr made.

Cut yarn and weave in ends.

(48 tr, 80 dc, 8 fpsc, 16 ch)

Round 11: 

Using same colour: Ch 1, *bphdc around 1st tr st, bphdc around next 7 sts, (hdc, ch 2, hdc) in ch-2 sp, bphdc around next 8 sts, fpsc around fpsc from around 10*, repeat from * around, join with sl st to 1st bphdc.

Joining new colour: Make a standing bphdc around 1st tr from round 10, bphdc around next 7 sts, (hdc, ch 2, hdc) in ch-2 sp, bphdc around next 8 sts, fpsc around fpsc from round 10*, repeat from * around, join with sl st to 1st bphdc.

Cut yarn and weave in ends.

(144 bhpdc, 16 hdc, 16 ch, 8 fpsc) 

Congratulations, yay you did it! Part ONE complete!! Stay tuned for Part TWO next week.

Welcome to the second week of our crochet along. How did you go with part one? I really hope you enjoyed it as much as I did. So are you ready to get down to business with part two then?

Ok that’s great! BUT this CAL came about after the passing of Connie Johnson, if you read the Crochet Along Information you’ll know all about her. So because of this, and after checking yourself in Part One, this week is about getting a family member or more to have themselves checked out.  Maybe they have a mole that wasn’t there before, or aren’t quite feeling just right it’s always better to check it out, even if it’s nothing in the end.

This crochet along is all about raising awareness.  So I would love you to be reminded every time you finish a round to think of someone you could ask to get checked or even remember someone that you know that has passed. And of course, if you are in the position to do so why not donate a dollar here or there to your charities of choice.

If you are using the same colourway as the Pastels version then you are now about to move into different colours other than Candyfloss and Fondant which represent different cancers. There are many different types that I would have loved to fit in this CAL but there aren’t enough rounds for that but please know that it embraces all the varieties and their representing colours, not just those that we use throughout the crochet along.

Remember that there are many ways to get into contact with me or others if you get stuck. Please click on the links in the Information post to see how to do so.

I would love to see your creations don’t forget to use the hashtags #conniesrayofhope #theloopystitchcal #loveyoursister when you post on social media platforms. Definitely post in the groups too.

Want the downloadable version? 

English – The Loopy Stitch Crochet Along – Connie’s Ray of Hope PART TWO

Spanish – Connie’s Ray of Hope – Part 2 (SPANISH_V2)

Czech – Connie’s Ray of Hope – Part 2 CZ

Please read the entire pattern through completely before starting. Some things will make more sense once your read on. 

For this part you will need: 
– Your yarn
– Corresponding hook
– Scissors
– Yarn needle

Finished size of Part Two:
8 ply/dk version (Pastel and Regal): approximately 13/5 inches / 34 cm
Worsted Weight (Original): approximately 17.5 inches / 44.5 cm

Please note that if your mandala sits approximately 2cm (or a little more) away from the ring then it will stretch nicely. If it’s too close to the ring, there won’t be as much stretch. You may need to get a bigger ring if this is so. 

Stitches Used in Part Two: US TERMS

Chain (ch)

Slip Stitch (sl st): Starting with a loop on your hook, insert hook in stitch or space indicated and pull up a loop, pull through loop on hook as well.

Single Crochet (sc): Starting with a loop on your hook, insert hook in stitch or space indicated and draw up a loop (two loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through both loops on your hook.

Standing Single Crochet: Starting with a sl st on your hook, insert hook in stitch or space indicated and draw up a loop (two loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through both loops on your hook.

Half Double Crochet (hdc): Starting with a loop on your hook, yarn over, insert hook in stitch or space indicated, yarn over and draw up a loop (three loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through all loops.

Standing Half Double Crochet: Starting with a sl st on your hook, yarn over, insert hook in stitch or space indicated, yarn over and draw up a loop (three loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through all loops.

Double Crochet (dc): Starting with a loop on your hook, yarn over, insert hook in stitch or space indication, yarn over and draw up and loop (three loops on hook). (Yarn over and pull through two loops) x 2 times.

Standing Double Crochet: Starting with a sl st on your hook, yarn over,  insert hook in stitch or space indication, yarn over and draw up and loop (three loops on hook). (Yarn over and pull through two loops) x 2 times.

Treble Crochet (tr): Starting with a loop on your hook, yarn over twice, insert hook in stitch or space indicated, yarn over and draw up a loop (4 loops on hook).  (Yarn over and pull through two loops) x 3 times

Back Post Single Crochet (bpsc): Starting with a loop on your hook, yarn over twice, insert hook from back to front to back around post of indicated stitch, yarn over and draw up loop, yarn over and pull through 2 loops

Standing Back Post Single Crochet: Starting with a sl st on your hook, insert hook from back to front to back around post of indicated stitch, yarn over and draw up loop, yarn over and pull through 2 loops

Back Post Half Double Crochet (bphdc): Starting with a loop on your hook, yarn over, insert hook from back to front to back around around post of indicated stitch, yarn over and draw up a loop, yarn over and pull through 3 loops

V Stitch (v-3 st): Make (dc, ch 3, dc) in stitch or space indicated

V Stitch (v-2 st): Make (dc, ch 2, dc) in stitch or space indicated

Front Post Treble Two Together (fptr2tog): Starting with a loop on your hook, yarn over twice, insert hook around stitch indicated, yarn over and draw up a loop (3 loops on hook).  (Yarn over and pull through two loops) x 2 times [First treble part done.]  Yarn over twice, and insert hook around stitch indicated, yarn over and draw up a loop (4 loops on hook). (Yarn over and pull through 2 loops) x 2 times, yarn over and pull through all remaining loops.

Notes:
Inspired by the Mandala Madness by Helen Shrimpton
Hints will be in italics and bold and coloured green.
Stitch counts will be in bold and orange.
New rounds for continual (same coloured) yarn will be in italics and blue.
Wanting to start a new colour (or follow ones already made) for each round – look for pink.  New rounds for joining new yarn will be in italics and pink.

* * Please repeat the instructions between asterisks the number of times stated.
( ) Repeat the instructions between parentheses the number of times stated.

Colours and Rounds:
Below is a table with the colours used (Please refer to here to see what brands of yarn they are)

Pattern:

Round 12:

Using same colour: Sl st in next 5 sts, ch 1, *sc in same sp (should be working into the 6th bphdc), sc in next 3 sts, (sc, ch 2, sc) in ch-2 sp, skip 1st bphdc st, sc in next 4 sts ch 9, skip 10 sts*, repeat from * around, join with sl st to 1st sc made.

Joining new colour: In 6th bphdc from round 11, make a standing *sc, sc in next 3 sts, (sc, ch 2, sc) in ch-2 sp, skip 1st bphdc st, sc in next 4 sts, ch 9, skip 10 sts*, repeat from * around, join with sl st to 1st sc made.
Cut yarn and weave in ends.

(80 sc, 88 ch)

Round 13: 

Using same colour: Ch 3, *dc in next 2 sts, hdc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in ch-2 sp, hdc in next 2 sts, dc in next 3 sts, ch 3, sc in ch-9 sp, ch 3, dc in next st*, repeat from * around, join with sl st to 3rd ch.

Joining new colour: In any 1st sc made in round 12, make a standing dc, *dc in next 2 sts, hdc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in ch-2 sp, hdc in next 2 sts, dc in next 3 sts, ch 3, sc in ch-9 sp, ch 3, dc in next st*, repeat from * around, join with sl st to 1st dc made.
Cut yarn and weave in ends.

(48 dc, 32 hdc, 24 sc, 48 ch)

Round 14:

Using same colour: Ch 1, *bpsc, bpsc around next 3 sts, skip 1 st, fpdc around 1st sc made in ch-2 sp from round 12, ch 3, fpdc around 2nd sc made in ch-2 sp, skip 4 sts, skip 1 st,  bpsc around next 4 sts (the 1st st will be the last hdc from round 13), (hdc, 2 dc) in ch-3 loop, ch 1, (2 dc, hdc) in next ch-4 loop*, repeat from * around, join with sl st to 1st bpsc made.

Joining new colour: In 1st dc made in round 13, make a standing *bpsc, bpsc around next 3 sts, skip 1 st, fpdc around 1st sc made in ch-2 sp from round 12, ch 3, fpdc around 2nd sc made in ch-2 sp, skip 4 sts, skip 1 st, bpsc around next 4 sts (the 1st st will be the last hdc from round 13), (hdc, 2 dc) in ch-3 loop, ch 1, (2 dc, hdc) in next ch-4 loop*, repeat from * around, join with sl st to 1st bpsc made.

(64 bpsc, 16 fpdc, 32 dc, 16 hdc, 32 ch)

Round 15: 

Using same colour: Sl st in next 2 sts, ch 3, *hdc in next st, sc in next fpdc, 4 sc in ch-3 sp, skip fpdc, sc in next st, hdc in next st, dc in next st, ch 3, skip 4 sts, v-3 st in ch-1 sp, ch 3, skip 5 sts, dc in next st*, repeat from * around, join with sl st to 3rd ch.

Joining new colour: In any 3rd bpsc made in round 14, make a standing dc, *hdc in next st, sc in next fpdc, 4 sc in ch-3 sp, skip fpdc, sc in next st, hdc in next st, dc in next st, ch 3, skip 4 sts, v-3 st in ch-1 sp, ch 3, skip 5 sts, dc in next st*, repeat from * around, join with sl st to 1st dc made.
Cut yarn and weave in ends.

(32 dc, 16 hdc, 48 sc, 72 ch)

Round 16: 

Using same colour: Ch 1, hdc in same sp, *hdc in next 2 sts, sc in next 4 sts, hdc in next 3 sts, ch 1, (2 tr, 2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc, 2 tr) in v-3 st, ch 1, hdc in next st*, repeat from * around, on final repeat omit last hdc, join with sl st to 1st hdc made.

Joining new colour: In 1st dc made in round 15, make a standing hdc, *hdc in next 2 sts, sc in next 4 sts, hdc in next 3 sts, ch 1, (2 tr, 2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc, 2 tr) in v-3 st, ch 1, hdc in next st*, repeat from * around, on final repeat omit last hdc, join with sl st to 1st hdc made.
Cut yarn and weave in ends.

(48 hdc, 32 sc, 32 dc, 32 tr, 32 ch)

Round 17:

Using same colour: Ch 1, sc in same st, *sc in next st, ch 2, sc in next 2 sts, fptr2tog around fpdc sts from round 14, skip 2 sts, sc in next 2 sts, ch 2, sc in next 2 sts, bphdc around next 4 sts, (hdc, ch 2, hdc) in ch-2 sp, bphdc around next 4 sts, sc in next st*, repeat from * around, on final repeat omit last sc, join with sl st to 1st sc made.

Joining new colour: In any hdc made in round 16, make a standing sc, *sc in next st, ch 2, sc in next 2 sts, fptr2tog around fpdc sts from round 14, skip 2 sts, sc in next 2 sts, ch 2, sc in next 2 sts, bphdc around next 4 sts, (hdc, ch 2, hdc) in ch-2 sp, bphdc around next 4 sts, sc in next st*, repeat from * around, on final repeat omit last sc, join with sl st to 1st sc made.
Cut yarn and weave in ends.

(64 sc, 8 fptr2tog, 64 bphdc, 16 hdc, 48 ch)

Round 18: 

Using same colour: Sl st to next st, ch 3, *5 dc in ch-2 sp, dc in next st, skip st, sc in fptr2tog, skip st, dc in next st, 5 dc in ch-2 sp, skip st, dc in next st, skip 2 sts, sc in next 3 sts, (sc, ch 2, sc) in ch-2 sp, skip hdc, sc in next 3 sts, skip 2 sts, dc in next st*, repeat from * around, on final repeat omit last dc, join with sl st to 3rd ch.

Joining new colour: In 2nd sc made in round 17, make a standing dc, *5 dc in ch-2 sp, dc in next st, skip st, sc in fptr2tog, skip st, dc in next st, 5 dc in ch-2 sp, skip st, dc in next st, skip 2 sts, sc in next 3 sts, (sc, ch 2, sc) in ch-2 sp, skip hdc, sc in next 3 sts, skip 2 sts, dc in next st*, repeat from * around, on final repeat omit last dc, join with sl st to 3rd ch.
Cut yarn and weave in ends.

(112 dc, 72 sc, 16 ch)

Yahoo you did it! Part TWO is complete. That’s the non-fiddly part out of the way. Now if you don’t want to continue with part THREE, you can still attach it to a ring using a yarn needle and some yarn and weave it around evenly.

So stay tuned for next week and the final instalment of Connie’s Ray of Hope.

Oh my goodness!! Can you believe you’re now about to crochet the last part of our crochet-along? I know it’s only a short cal but I have loved watching all of your creations grow.

So we are in the third and final week of Connie’s Ray of Hope. You checked yourself in Part One, and were hopefully successful in getting a family member or friend checked last week in Part Two. So what does that entail for Part Three?

I think a great way to finish this crochet-along off would be to pay tribute to those that fought their battle and are either still here with us today or are sadly, not here. Spread the word, do whatever you can to try and kick cancer’s butt.

Samuel Johnson (butt-kicker of cancer), Connie’s brother just won Victorian Australian for 2018 for his work raising funds for cancer research on Thursday 26th October 2017. How amazing is that!! $7 million raised for cancer research so far and even a word record under his belt. He got that record by riding an astonishing 15 465 kilometres on a unicycle around Australia in 2013-2014 whilst raising funds for the Garvan Research Institute.

Maybe you could simply share a photo of your Connie’s Ray of Hope and use the hashtags #cancersucks #kickcancersbutt #fcancer #loveyoursister  or even your own personal one on your social media platforms. You could auction off your mandala, donate your mandala to a raffle etc. The mandalas may be something pretty to look at, but it has a deep underlying message either personal to you or in general.

My goal during this cal was to raise awareness and money for cancer research. I hope that most of you were able to donate a little bit. But more importantly, I hope you checked yourself and brought it to the attention of others.

Thank you for being apart of this crochet-along and I hope to see you make more and more Connies.

Please read the entire pattern through completely before starting. Some things will make more sense once your read on. 

Want the downloadable version?

English – The Loopy Stitch Crochet Along – Connie’s Ray of Hope PART THREE

Spanish – Connie’s Ray of Hope – Part 3 (SPANISH)

Czech – Connie’s Ray of Hope Part 3 CZ

For this part you will need: 
– Your yarn
– Corresponding hook
– Scissors
– Yarn needle
– Your ring

Finished size of Part Three:
8 ply/dk version (Pastel and Regal): approximately 17.5 inches / 44.5 cm
Worsted Weight (Original): approximately 23 inches / 58.5 cm

Stitches Used in Part Three: US TERMS

Chain (ch)

Slip Stitch (sl st): Starting with a loop on your hook, insert hook in stitch or space indicated and pull up a loop, pull through loop on hook as well.

Single Crochet (sc): Starting with a loop on your hook, insert hook in stitch or space indicated and draw up a loop (two loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through both loops on your hook.

Standing Single Crochet: Starting with a sl st on your hook, insert hook in stitch or space indicated and draw up a loop (two loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through both loops on your hook.

Single crochet two together (sc2tog): Starting with a loop on your hook, insert hook in stitch or space indicated and draw up a loop (two loops on hook). Insert hook in next st and draw up a loop (three loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through all three loops on your hook.

Half Double Crochet (hdc): Starting with a loop on your hook, yarn over, insert hook in stitch or space indicated, yarn over and draw up a loop (three loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through all loops.

Double Crochet (dc): Starting with a loop on your hook, yarn over, insert hook in stitch or space indication, yarn over and draw up and loop (three loops on hook). (Yarn over and pull through two loops) x 2 times.

Standing Double Crochet: Starting with a sl st on your hook, yarn over, insert hook in stitch or space indication, yarn over and draw up and loop (three loops on hook). (Yarn over and pull through two loops) x 2 times.

Treble Crochet (tr): Starting with a loop on your hook, yarn over twice, insert hook in stitch or space indicated, yarn over and draw up a loop (5 loops on hook).  (Yarn over and pull through two loops) x 3 times

Back Post Half Double Crochet (bphdc): Starting with a loop on your hook, yarn over, insert hook from back to front to back around around post of indicated stitch, yarn over and draw up a loop, yarn over and pull through 3 loops

V Stitch (v-2 st): Make (dc, ch 2, dc) in stitch or space indicated

Beginning Popcorn (beg pc): Ch 3 (counts as dc), 4 dc in same sp as, drop loop from hook, insert hook from front to back in top of ch 3, pick up dropped loop, pull dropped loop through, ch 1 (to lock)

Popcorn (pc): Work 5 dc in same stitch or space indicated, drop loop from hook, insert hook from front to back in first dc made, pick up dropped loop, pull dropped loop through, ch 1 (to lock)

Notes:
Inspired by the Mandala Madness by Helen Shrimpton
Hints will be in italics and bold and coloured green.
Stitch counts will be in bold and orange.
New rounds for continual (same coloured) yarn will be in italics and blue.
Wanting to start a new colour (or follow ones already made) for each round – look for pink.  New rounds for joining new yarn will be in italics and pink.

Please note for round 19, if using the same coloured yarn, you will need to cut yarn after round 18 and attach it back on round 19

* * Please repeat the instructions between asterisks the number of times stated.
( ) Repeat the instructions between parentheses the number of times stated.

Colours and Rounds:
Below is a table with the colours used (Please refer to here to see what brands of yarn they are)

Pattern:

Attaching to ring

Round 19:

Using same colour and joining new colour: Holding the mandala inside the ring, make a sc over the ring and into the ch-2 sp, 40 sc around ring, *sc into next ch-2 sp on mandala and around ring, 40 sc around ring*, repeat from * around, join with sl st to 1st sc made.

(328 sc)

Please note that having a good even tension for this round is quite critical. It will determine how even your mandala will sit on the ring. Please change your hook size accordingly if needed; if it’s too tight, go up a size or two; if it’s too loose, go down a size or two.  It is quite fiddly but once you get the hang of it, I’m sure you’ll love the look of it.

(Please hover mouse over photos for step-by-step instructions) 

Round 20: 

Using same colour: Ch 1, sc in same st, sc in next 7 sts, ch 7, skip 5 sts, sc in next 7 sts, sc2tog, sc in next 7 sts, ch 7, skip 5 sts, *sc, in next 15 sts, ch 7, skip 5 sts, sc in next 7 sts, sc2tog, sc in next 7 sts, ch 7, skip 5 sts*, repeat from * around, sc in last 6 sts, join with sl st to 1st sc made.

Joining new colour: In 1st sc made in round 19, make a standing sc, sc in next 7 sts, ch 7, skip 5 sts, sc in next 7 sts, sc2tog, sc in next 7 sts, ch 7, skip 5 sts, *sc, in next 15 sts, ch 7, skip 5 sts, sc in next 7 sts, sc2tog, sc in next 7 sts, ch 7, skip 5 sts*, repeat from * around, sc in last 6 sts, join with sl st to 1st sc made.

(232 sc, 8 sc2tog, 112 ch)

Round 21: 

Using same colour: Ch 1, sc in same sp, (sc2tog) 2 times, sc in next st, sc2tog, 9 sc in ch-7 loop, *sc2tog, sc in next st, (sc2tog) 2 times, sc in next st, (sc2tog) 2 times, sc in next st, sc2tog, 9 sc in ch-7 loop*, repeat from * around, finishing with sc2tog, sc in next st, (sc2tog) 2 times, join with sl st to 1st sc made.

Joining new colour: In 1st sc made in round 20 make a standing sc, (sc2tog) 2 times, sc in next st, sc2tog, 9 sc in ch-7 loop, *sc2tog, sc in next st, (sc2tog) 2 times, sc in next st, (sc2tog) 2 times, sc in next st, sc2tog, 9 sc in ch-7 loop*, repeat from * around, finishing with sc2tog, sc in next st, (sc2tog) 2 times, join with sl st to 1st sc made.

(192 sc, 96sc2tog) 

Round 22: 

Using same colour: Ch 1, sc in same sp, *sc in next st, skip 3 sts, 2 tr in next st, (tr, dc) in next st, 2 dc in next st, dc in next st, v-2 st in next st, dc in next st, 2 dc in next st, (tr, dc) in next st, 2 tr in next st, skip 3 sts, sc in next 2 sts*, repeat from * around, omit (remove/do not do) last sc on final repeat, join with sl st to 1st sc made.

Joining new colour: In 1st sc made in round 21, make a standing sc, *sc in next st, skip 3 sts, 2 tr in next st, (tr, dc) in next st, 2 dc in next st, dc in next st, v-2 st in next st, dc in next st, 2 dc in next st, (tr, dc) in next st, 2 tr in next st, skip 3 sts, sc in next 2 sts*, repeat from * around, omit (remove/do not do) last sc on final repeat, join with sl st to 1st sc made.

Please note, that this round may feel a bit tricky or awkward due to the ring. I promise your hard work and dedication will pay off in the end. Please stick with it. One more round to go 😀

(48 sc, 96 tr, 160 dc, 32 ch) 

Round 23: 

Using same colour: Beg pc in same st, *ch 1, skip next st, bphdc around next 8 sts, (hdc, ch 2, hdc) in ch-2 sp, bphdc around next 8 sts, ch 1, skip st, pc in next*, repeat from * around, omit last pc in final repeat, join with sl st to 1st pc made. Cut yarn and weave in ends.

Joining new colour: In any middle sc from round 22, make a beg pc, *ch 1, skip next st, bphdc around next 8 sts, (hdc, ch 2, hdc) in ch-2 sp, bphdc around next 8 sts, ch 1, skip st, pc in next*, repeat from * around, omit last pc in final repeat, join with sl st to 1st pc made. Cut yarn and weave in ends.

(256 bphdc, 16 pop, 32 hdc, 64 ch)

I want to say a big thank you for participating in Connie’s Ray of Hope. I have thoroughly enjoyed seeing your wips and I look forward to seeing your HOTH’s soon too.

Kick cancers butt. F cancer. Peace out 😉

I am so lucky to have such wonderful testers who usually are available at the drop of a hook ;).  This is a little thank you to them as well as informing you of their colour choices and brands.

Courtney, Natasha, Jess and Narelle were my amazing testers for this crochet-along and they made outstanding pieces, all so individual. This is the beauty of crochet and yarn; making something in your own colours or following the recommended ones, they will still be individual and unique. I’ll go in order of being mentioned above to keep things smooth-flowing.

First up we have Courtney and her amazing piece. Now if you follow her you know she has a big stash and her yarn comes from all over the world so she usually ends up using left over bits from her stash.  (Please note that the table in each part is written as their original names not the Stylecraft ones) She used a 5mm hook and 18 inch ring.

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So here are the colours in Stylecraft Special DK (as close as possible):
Citron, Cream, Duck Egg, Teal, Sage, Aspen, Empire, Turquoise, Sherbet and Petrol.

Secondly we have Natasha and her two gorgeous pieces. Natasha made the white one for her daughter’s birthday present and I think it’s beautiful, even though it was finished at the end of part 2/very start of part 3. I also managed to get another rainbow test piece out of her… hehe she’s doesn’t normally do rainbows, but I think it looks gorgeous. She used Dingo Dye Yarn Rainbow Minis 20g/80m in the following colours:
9g purple – 36m
10g blue – 40m
10g green – 40m
6g yellow – 24m
3g red – 12m
5g white – 16.5m
Total – 43g-168.5m
3mm hook, 3.5mm hook for attching to ring.
300mm metal ring

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We then have Jess who made a stunning piece using Mislet and Dandielle yarn in Taupe, Blue Willow, Warm Pink and Sunlight. I love these colours together. She also recommends using a smaller ring size as she used the 400mm and a 4mm hook for her piece. The yarn didn’t stretch too much, so she personally thinks maybe using a stretchier yarn would be better for this project.

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And Narelle made her Connie using 4ply Bella Baby cotton/silk approximately 80g, a
3mm hook and a 350mm ring. The one colour is also just as beautiful as the different coloured ones and makes some stitches and patterns in it stand out even more. This colour is just divine!

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So thank you again to all of my testers. I am so very lucky to have you in my team. Till the next pattern xoxo